Hook: Dai-Riki 305 #13
Thread: Sheer 14/0
Tail: Polychenille
Wing: Hareline Para Post Dark Grey
Body: Hends Superfine
Thorax Cover: 2mm black foam
Legs: 0.5mm stretch nylon
First attempt at this pattern. The bibio hatch can be great and I have had some flies in my box previously, but those I’ve bought. This one is inspired by Andre Brun, but with some slight modifications on material since I didn’t have everything in the original pattern.
Hook: TMC 100BL #12
Thread: Sheer 14/0 Green
Body: Hareline Krystal Dub Caddis Green,
Rib: UNI-Mylar #16
Wing: Hareline Para Post Wing Dark Gray
Wing casing: Foam 2mm
Spinner fall can be be the most fun you have, or the most frustrating you can come by…. I’m not quite sure where I picked up this pattern, but it is a good one where you can swap out the colors quite easy and keep in different sizes for that one day where it really matters.
The para post from Hareline is great for these patterns, I’ve used it for a caddis pattern with great success; it floats forever
Bottom view: the imprint this have from underneath is the most important. The colors are important, yes, but look at that imprint
With different wing colors:
I haven’t done many SBS yet here on dryfly.me, but I posted the hatching caddis family on the fly fishing community over at google+ and got a request for a SBS on this pattern so I thought I would give it a try.
Hook: Partridge Klinkhamer X-treme #14
Thread: UNI 6/0 Black – make sure it is tough enough to tie in deer hair
Body: Hareline Hare’s Ear Plus DubbIn Dark Olive
Wing: Deer Hair Olive , 2mm foam white, CDC Olive
1. Dub the hook with color of choice, I think the Hare’s Ear gives life to the body
2. Cut a strip of foam and tie in, remember to leave enough room behind the eye to tie in both the deer hair, the cdc and the foam. If you don’t have foam use any material that will be able to split the wing and secure it: pheasant tail for example
3. Stack up deer hair and tie in: you need enough to be able to create the split wing, but not too much. Experiment a bit with the length – if it gets too long the proportions will be off.
4. Cut the deer hair and tie in, make sure it is properly secured
5. Make a dubbing loop of the thread and add the CDC. I use the Marc Petitjean Magic Clip to get the fibers off the feather.
6. Wrap the CDC just behind the deer hair and tie if off, again: make sure to not tie it too close to the eye
7. This is the interesting part: drag the strip of foam slowly to the front through the deer hair and split it into a wing. Wiggle the foam through the hair and make sure the wings are even, look at the fly from above and try again if it is uneven. Tie off the foam – depending on the foam make sure to be very careful when tying it off: you can risk tearing the foam in two and you have to start all over again….
8. The split wing from above
9. Apply a bit of dubbing to the head and tie off.
Add a bit of floatant to the wing and it is set to go! This is a fly that can be varied in different colors and sizes, the important part is the brilliant profile it gives in the water. You can tie it without the CDC, but I think the added CDC gives a lot of life on the surface
Hook: Daiichi 1260 #16
Thread: Sheer 14/0 Black
Tail: Mallard Flank White
Body: Taimen Beaver Dubbing Brown, UNI-Mylar #16 wrap
Wing: 2mm foam
Hackle: Whiting Bronze Brown
Was looking at some emerging Ephemerella patterns for this one; it will sit very low in the surface and the mallard flank tail will give it life. The foam wings together with the large hackle will make this sit in the surface for a long time. One of those that will end up filling a row in my box later this summer.
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