Earlier known as dryfly.me
Home » Archive by category "SBS"

SBS: Polar Magnus

I have done some Polar Magnus lately and I thought it would be good to do a SBS on this great seatrout fly. This is a pattern that can be changed with different colors and hackle and this is how I tie them to ensure maximum durability during fishing.

Hook: TMC 777SP #8
Thread: UNI 6/0
Tail: Whiting Hackle tips
Body: Hareline Ice Dub
Body Hackle: Whiting
Rib: Copper Wire
Front Hackle: Foxtail Hen Red
Eyes: Bead Chain Gold Medium

1. start with thread from the hook eye and add a layer back and then towards the eye again. Add a pair of bead chain eyes, here I have used a medium gold version, but can be substituted with different sizes and colors. You can also add the eyes on the underside of the hook
2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_1

2. When tying in the eyes: wrap in a figure-eight around the hook to securely tie in the eyes, if not they can start to slip. Also make sure you apply a good amount of pressure on the thread here to secure the eyes, you can also add some superglue to the wraps when you are done to secure the eyes even more.

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_2

3. Find two hackle tips and tie them in around the hook point (or where the hook bend starts), tie them in on the side of the hook

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_3

4. The hackle tips should form a V going back

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_45. Tie in the hackle and when going back add a copper wire

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_5

6. Add dubbing to the thread, this can be varied in different colors and variants but I like the Ice Dub on this fly

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_6

7. Dub the body but stop a little bit before the eyes: you want to have room to tie in the hackle

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_7

8. Tie in the body hackle, this can again be varied: short or long, and be added in short or longer turns around the hook, this depends on how you want the final fly to appear

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_8

9. When you reach the end of the dubbing make sure to keep the hackle tight while you counter-wrap the copper wire around the body all the way to the front of the dubbing

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_9

10. The first copper wrap here is keeping the hackle down and secures it in place. Make sure to not get the wire above the hackle so that it is trapped

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_10

11. I have ribbed the fly with a lot of turns here, this will make sure the fly is durable and will add a little bit of extra weight to it as well

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_11

12. After cutting away the hackle tip (keep it to make more tails on other polar magnus!) and the wire tie in a red (or pink) hackle

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_12

13. Wrap the hackle 2-3-4 times (depending on how much hackle you want and the profile you want the fly to have) and tie it in just behind the eyes. Secure the thread with a whipfinish and you have the final fly:

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_13

14. To make sure the fly is even more durable and will endure everything that happens to it I add some Bug Bond above the thread between the eyes and cure it with UV

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_14

15. The Bug Bond keeps the eyes securely in place, but make sure that you don’t cover the hackle in it

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_15

16. A alternative Polar magnus with red copper wire and pink spey hackle, just to show how you can mix this pattern up

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_16

A batch of Polar Magnus done and ready to fish:

2014.11.03.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_batch

SBS: Baitfish

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_10Hook: TMC 811S #6
Thread: UNI 6/0 Black
Tail: Hareline Extra Select Craft Fur White, Angel Hair
Body: Hareline Solid Tinsel Chenille Pearl
Wing: Hareline Extra Select Craft Fur White/Black
Head: Hareline Adhesive Holographic Eyes 3/16 Red, Bug-Bond

I have fished some in saltwater before, but haven’t had much luck when it comes to actually catching anything(!?!). But: I was on vacation last week and ended up when the tidal went out underneath a bridge, causing a strong current where I spotted a lot of fish. I put on this baitfish on my #6 rod and got 30minutes of Mackerel fun: pulling in fast I saw the mackerel hitting this fly hard! More pictures on that later, but this is my take on a baitfish pattern that was very successful. It becomes quite slim in the water and should trigger the fish if pulled in fast high in the water

Add a loop of mono at the end of the hook, I use quite a thick one

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_1Tie in craft fur above the guard

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_2Tie off the craft fur properly ( the fish might hit this fly hard )

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_3Add some angel hair (not needed, but adds some glimmer to the fly)

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_4Tie in the tinsel

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_5Wrap the tinsel, forming a body. I don’t mind much if the body is even or straigth

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_6Add more white craft fur as underwing

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_7Add black craft fur as top-wing and tie of the fly with a decent head since you want a place to glue on the eyes. I vary between black, brown and  green for the top-wing to create variations

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_8I use some zap-a-gap to glue  the eyes to the thread

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_9Apply bug-bond to form a head

dryfly.me.2013.09.bait_fish_10The material needed for this fly

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

 

 

 

 

SBS: Hatching Caddis

I haven’t done many SBS yet here on dryfly.me, but I posted the hatching caddis family on the fly fishing community over at google+ and got a request for a SBS on this pattern so I thought I would give it a try.

Hook: Partridge Klinkhamer X-treme #14
Thread: UNI 6/0 Black – make sure it is tough enough to tie in deer hair
Body: Hareline Hare’s Ear Plus DubbIn Dark Olive
Wing: Deer Hair Olive , 2mm foam white, CDC Olive

1. Dub the hook with color of choice, I think the Hare’s Ear gives life to the body

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_12. Cut a strip of foam and tie in, remember to leave enough room behind the eye to tie in both the deer hair, the cdc and the foam. If you don’t have foam use any material that will be able to split the wing and secure it: pheasant tail for example

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_23. Stack up deer hair and tie in: you need enough to be able to create the split wing, but not too much. Experiment a bit with the length – if it gets too long the proportions will be off.

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_34. Cut the deer hair and tie in, make sure it is properly secured

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_45. Make a dubbing loop of the thread and add the CDC. I use the Marc Petitjean Magic Clip to get the fibers off the feather.

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_56. Wrap the CDC just behind the deer hair and tie if off, again: make sure to not tie it too close to the eye

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_67. This is the interesting part: drag the strip of foam slowly to the front through the deer hair and split it into a wing. Wiggle the foam through the hair and make sure the wings are even, look at the fly from above and try again if it is uneven. Tie off the foam – depending on the foam make sure to be very careful when tying it off: you can risk tearing the foam in two and you have to start all over again….

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_78. The split wing from above

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_89. Apply a bit of dubbing to the head and tie off.

dryfly.me.2013.08.sbs_hatching_caddis_9Add a bit of floatant to the wing and it is set to go! This is a fly that can be varied in different colors and sizes, the important part is the brilliant profile it gives  in the water. You can tie it without the CDC, but I think the added CDC gives a lot of life on the surface