Flyfishing, flytying and hooks
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Green Highlander for fishing

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One of the things to do this winter is to tie up some classics for fishing next year: since I have been tying up Green Highlander lately I thought I’d give it a go on a #1/0 hook, not just for display and practice but for practical use. The pattern is the same as I have visited before, but I did omit a couple of small things, and I might not be that exact when tying them in, but it is a very good practice since I have to marry the wings and mount them on the hook and get everything together. The one thing I did experiment a bit with was the length of the wing, so I have a idea on what I want this pattern to look like when I’m ready to swing it in front of a salmon next year!

To give you a idea of size:

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Green Highlander- #3/0

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Hook: Partridge Bartleet Blind-Eye #3/0
Thread: UNI 17/0 Trico White, Sheer 14/0 Black
Tag: Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine French Tinsel, Lagartun French Silk Floss
Tail: GP topping, Wood Duck
Butt: Black Ostrich
Body: Lagartun French Silk Floss, Seals fur Green Highlander
Rib: Lagartun French Tinsel
Hackle: Green Highlander Cock Saddle
Underwing: GP tippet
Wing: Dyed Turkey Yellow/Orange/Green, Wood Duck, Mallard Duck
Throat: Rooster Neck Yellow
Cheek: Red Crow Substitute

This one has been a long time in the making: I started last year with some married wings but it went on and off for a while and I didn’t have material that I needed for this pattern. I still don’t have everything I would like to have: the wing should have some GP/Bustard/Mottled turkey, a good JC and horns. But: step by step I’ll add more to this pattern, this time it was all about getting the 18 strands of wing to stay together and tie them in without the fibers going in every direction, and I did! Next time I’ll increase the wing to 21/24 strands and manage to tie that in properly, but I don’t mind doing more variants on this pattern (as long as I get some more silk gut soon….).

There are some adjustments on this (there always is!), but the parts I’m happy with on this fly: the GP that meets up in the back, the GP underwing that aligns (and the fact that I figured out how to do it), the fact that the wing stayed in one place when I tied it in (“Tying the classic salmon fly” helped me out there) and the mallard duck roof.

I’m also quite happy with the start of the fly: the silk was nice and (almost) even, together with the tinsel it was a good starting point:

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The underbody of white UNI-Floss before I started to add silk and seals fur. This makes for a better profile on the final fly:

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Up until this point the fly is flowing nicely: the hackle could be better and the yellow throat should be thicker:

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The colors of the green highlander is what pulled me in the first time:

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Rear-view of the green highlander:

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The topping is forming a nice veil on top of the fly and packs it in:

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If I were to save one fly I have ever created it must be this! I know that if I come back to this in a couple of years time I will find a lot of things to point out, but this is the process: tie up, learn, repeat. And for me part of that process is to put these patterns out here, together with a macro shot that shows all the little flaws it have, but that is one of the things that drive me to become better!

To give you a idea of how big this fly is:

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Silver Doctor Hairwing

2014.11.15.dryfly.me.silver_doctorThread: UNI 6/0
Tag: UNI-French, Lagartun French Silk
Butt: Sealwool dubbing from Eivind Berulfsen
Tail: PT Crest
Body: UNI-Mylar
Rib: UNI-French
Wing: Red, Yellow, Blue Bucktail
Throat Hackle: Veniard Cock Neck Doctor Blue

After yesterdays Nova Scotia Classic it was time for this bucktail wing version of the silver doctor.

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Nova Scotia Classic

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Hook: Dai-Riki 899 #1/0
Thread: UNI 6/0
Tag: UNI-French, Lagartun French Silk
Butt: Sealwool dubbing from Eivind Berulfsen
Tail: PT Crest
Body: UNI-Mylar
Rib: UNI-French
Underwing: Green Krystal flash
Wing: Templedog
Hackle: Veniard Chinese Cock Cape Doctor Blue

This pattern showed up at facebook on a double hook and I had to search it up and give the pattern a go. It is not exactly to the recipe I found since I had to substitute some materials, but the overal pattern is there.

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SBS: Polar Magnus

I have done some Polar Magnus lately and I thought it would be good to do a SBS on this great seatrout fly. This is a pattern that can be changed with different colors and hackle and this is how I tie them to ensure maximum durability during fishing.

Hook: TMC 777SP #8
Thread: UNI 6/0
Tail: Whiting Hackle tips
Body: Hareline Ice Dub
Body Hackle: Whiting
Rib: Copper Wire
Front Hackle: Foxtail Hen Red
Eyes: Bead Chain Gold Medium

1. start with thread from the hook eye and add a layer back and then towards the eye again. Add a pair of bead chain eyes, here I have used a medium gold version, but can be substituted with different sizes and colors. You can also add the eyes on the underside of the hook
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2. When tying in the eyes: wrap in a figure-eight around the hook to securely tie in the eyes, if not they can start to slip. Also make sure you apply a good amount of pressure on the thread here to secure the eyes, you can also add some superglue to the wraps when you are done to secure the eyes even more.

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3. Find two hackle tips and tie them in around the hook point (or where the hook bend starts), tie them in on the side of the hook

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4. The hackle tips should form a V going back

2014.11.11.dryfly.me.polar_magnus_sbs_45. Tie in the hackle and when going back add a copper wire

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6. Add dubbing to the thread, this can be varied in different colors and variants but I like the Ice Dub on this fly

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7. Dub the body but stop a little bit before the eyes: you want to have room to tie in the hackle

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8. Tie in the body hackle, this can again be varied: short or long, and be added in short or longer turns around the hook, this depends on how you want the final fly to appear

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9. When you reach the end of the dubbing make sure to keep the hackle tight while you counter-wrap the copper wire around the body all the way to the front of the dubbing

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10. The first copper wrap here is keeping the hackle down and secures it in place. Make sure to not get the wire above the hackle so that it is trapped

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11. I have ribbed the fly with a lot of turns here, this will make sure the fly is durable and will add a little bit of extra weight to it as well

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12. After cutting away the hackle tip (keep it to make more tails on other polar magnus!) and the wire tie in a red (or pink) hackle

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13. Wrap the hackle 2-3-4 times (depending on how much hackle you want and the profile you want the fly to have) and tie it in just behind the eyes. Secure the thread with a whipfinish and you have the final fly:

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14. To make sure the fly is even more durable and will endure everything that happens to it I add some Bug Bond above the thread between the eyes and cure it with UV

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15. The Bug Bond keeps the eyes securely in place, but make sure that you don’t cover the hackle in it

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16. A alternative Polar magnus with red copper wire and pink spey hackle, just to show how you can mix this pattern up

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A batch of Polar Magnus done and ready to fish:

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