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John Sand: Ulrik

  • Hook: #10-14
  • Body: 1/2 flat copper, 1/2 green wool
  • Hackle: Badger cock or bodyfeather from Jungle Cock

A fly from the “hackle and spider” series by John Sand: Ulrik.

The body of this fly could be done either with copper thread or flat copper. The green wool could also be substituted with seals-fur for a little bit of extra shine and volume to the body.

The pattern lists both badger and JC body feather for hackle, here I chose the latter to make good use of the JC cape. It is also softer than the badger I have available, so for me this was the better chose for a spider

Tied on Mustad 73100 #10: https://flyhooks.org/mustad/73100

Husmannsflua

A pattern by John Sand: Husmannsflua.

The combination silver/black/red is never wrong, and not so here either. Tied on a Mustad 71300 #10 with berlin wool as dubbing in the thorax. A pattern that can be changed with longer hackle or more black dubbing, depending on the river and conditions you are fishing in.

  • Hook: #10-14
  • Tail: Short tuft nylon floss
  • Body: First 1/3-1/2 flat silver tinsel, rest black wool
  • Hackle: Black hen.

http://flypattern.org/authors/john-sand/book/patterns/pattern/husmannsflua

Jock Scott #2/0 for fishing

Even with winter upon us here in Norway the season is getting closer, and every so often I get a order of classics to fish with. I enjoy tying these since I know they will swim in a river, chasing silver somewhere in Scandinavia!

When tying for fishing I make sure to enforce the fly to make it as fishable and durable as I can: a bit of superglue to get the but to sit correctly, reverse-hackle the bodyhackle, a few extra turns with well waxed thread to make sure the wing will sit where it is supposed to, and: substitutes for many of the materials.

The body veiling is Swan, Crow is Ken Sawada substitute and I use Kingfisher instead of chatterer.

Tied on Partridge M2 #2/0: http://flyhooks.org/partridge/m2-heavy-salmon-single